By Declan BarryMiyajima from Hiroshima: Your Complete Island Day Trip Guide
Miyajima sits just across the water from Hiroshima, close enough for a perfect day trip yet worlds apart in atmosphere. The island's famous floating torii gate draws visitors from around the globe, but there's far more to discover beyond that iconic view. You'll find ancient temples tucked into forested hills, curious deer wandering freely through the streets, and some of the best momiji manju (maple leaf cakes) in Japan.
This guide covers everything you need to know for your Miyajima day trip, from the first ferry departure to the last train back to Hiroshima. Whether you're squeezing in a quick visit or spending a full day exploring, you'll leave with practical knowledge for making the most of this sacred island.
Getting There: Trains and Ferries
The journey to Miyajima starts at Hiroshima Station. You'll take the JR Sanyo Line to Miyajimaguchi Station, then catch a ferry across to the island.
Train from Hiroshima
Local trains on the JR Sanyo Line run frequently throughout the day, departing Hiroshima Station every 15-20 minutes during peak hours. The journey takes approximately 27 minutes and costs ¥420 one way. If you're using a JR Pass, this trip is fully covered.
Rapid trains also run this route and cost the same ¥420, but they skip several stops and reach Miyajimaguchi in about 25 minutes. Both train types work perfectly well - just hop on whichever arrives first.
Alternatively, the Hiroden tram network runs from central Hiroshima directly to the ferry terminal. This takes longer (about 70 minutes from Hiroshima Station) but costs only ¥270 and offers a more scenic route through the city and along the coast.
Ferry to the Island
Two ferry companies operate from Miyajimaguchi: JR West Ferry and Matsudai Kisen Ferry. Both take 10 minutes to cross and charge ¥200 each way (children ¥100). The JR ferry is covered by the JR Pass, making it the obvious choice for pass holders.
Ferries depart every 15 minutes from around 6:00 AM until late evening. The JR ferry takes a route that passes closer to the floating torii gate, giving you an excellent photo opportunity from the water. If you're not using a JR Pass, this routing detail might influence your choice.
Return ferries run until approximately 10:00 PM, with the last JR trains to Hiroshima departing Miyajimaguchi around 11:30 PM. Check current timetables on your visit day, as schedules occasionally shift for maintenance or special events.
Planning Your Visit: Timing and Tides
Miyajima rewards early arrivals. The first ferries carry few passengers, and you'll experience the island in peaceful morning light before day-trippers flood in around 10:00 AM. Aim to catch a ferry by 8:00 AM if possible.
Understanding the Tides
The famous torii gate's appearance changes dramatically with the tide. At high tide, it appears to float on water, creating that postcard-perfect scene. At low tide, you can walk right up to the gate's massive pillars on the exposed seabed.
Check tide tables before your visit (the Miyajima Tourist Association website publishes these daily). High tide typically occurs twice daily, roughly 12 hours apart. Many visitors prefer high tide for photographs, but low tide offers its own magic - you'll see locals and tourists alike writing wishes in the sand beneath the gate.
The island's character shifts with the tide, so if you're spending a full day, you'll likely experience both states. Plan your main torii gate photography session around your preferred water level.
The Floating Torii Gate and Itsukushima Shrine
Itsukushima Shrine gave Miyajima its sacred status over a millennium ago. The shrine complex extends over the water on stilts, with covered walkways connecting prayer halls, a stage for bugaku performances, and smaller shrines.
The entrance fee costs ¥300 for adults, ¥200 for high school students, and ¥100 for children. The shrine opens at 6:30 AM (winter) or 6:00 AM (summer), making it perfect for early risers wanting to beat the crowds.
Walk through the shrine's vermillion corridors slowly. The wooden floors, polished smooth by centuries of pilgrims, feel cool underfoot. At high tide, water laps beneath the walkways, creating rippling reflections on the ceiling boards above. The shrine was designed to create this intimate relationship with the sea.
The main torii gate sits 200 metres offshore from the shrine's main building. This current gate, standing 16 metres tall, was erected in 1875 and is constructed from decay-resistant camphor wood. Unlike most torii gates, it stands by its own weight rather than being anchored into the ground.
From the shrine veranda, you'll capture classic photographs of the gate framed by the shrine's architecture. For different angles, walk along the waterfront path in either direction from the shrine entrance.
Mount Misen: The Island's Summit
Miyajima is a mountainous island, and Mount Misen's 535-metre summit rewards hikers with outstanding views across the Seto Inland Sea. The mountain holds sacred significance in Shingon Buddhism, and the monk Kobo Daishi reportedly meditated here over 1,200 years ago.
Ropeway Option
The Miyajima Ropeway runs from near Momijidani Park to Shishiiwa Station, cutting out most of the climb. The two-stage journey costs ¥2,000 for a return ticket (¥1,000 one way). The ropeway operates from 9:00 AM, with last ascents around 4:00 PM in winter and 5:00 PM in summer.
From the upper ropeway station, it's still a 30-minute walk to the summit along a well-maintained path. This section includes some steps and uneven terrain, so wear appropriate footwear.
Hiking Routes
Three main trails lead to the summit, each taking 90 minutes to 2 hours:
Momijidani Course: The most popular route, starting from Momijidani Park behind Itsukushima Shrine. This trail passes through maple forests (spectacular in autumn) and follows a stream for the initial section. Well-marked and moderately steep.
Daisho-in Course: Begins at Daisho-in Temple on the island's west side. This route is slightly steeper but encounters fewer hikers. You'll pass small Buddhist statues and stone lanterns along the way.
Omoto Course: The longest and quietest trail, starting from the northwest coast. This route takes approximately 2.5 hours and suits experienced hikers wanting solitude.
All trails converge near the summit. The peak offers 360-degree views, with Hiroshima city visible on clear days. Near the summit, you'll find Reikado Hall, where a sacred flame has reportedly burned continuously for over 1,200 years.
Carry water, as facilities on the mountain are limited. The summit can be windy and noticeably cooler than sea level, so bring a light jacket even in summer.
Other Temples and Shrines Worth Visiting
Daisho-in Temple
Many visitors bypass Daisho-in Temple in their rush to see the torii gate, but this atmospheric temple complex deserves 45 minutes of your time. Located a 10-minute walk from the ferry terminal, Daisho-in spreads across multiple levels on the mountainside.
The approach stairs feature hundreds of spinning prayer wheels along the handrails - give each one a turn as you climb. Inside the grounds, you'll discover caves filled with Buddhist statues, a flame lit from Mount Misen's eternal fire, and various halls dedicated to different deities.
Unlike the crowded waterfront, Daisho-in usually remains peaceful even during peak visiting hours. Entry is free. The temple grounds open from dawn to dusk.
Senjokaku and Five-Storey Pagoda
Senjokaku (literally "hall of a thousand mats") sits on a hill overlooking the ferry terminal area. This large wooden pavilion was commissioned by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1587 but never completed. The unfinished interior, open to the elements, creates an unusual atmospheric space.
The adjacent Five-Storey Pagoda, built in 1407, combines Japanese and Chinese architectural styles. Its vermillion colour pops against green hillside backgrounds. You can photograph both structures together from various angles around the hillside.
Entry to Senjokaku costs ¥100. The pagoda is not open to visitors but makes an excellent photographic subject from outside.
The Friendly (and Cheeky) Deer
Miyajima's deer population numbers around 500 individuals. Unlike Nara's deer, Miyajima's deer are considered wild and are not fed by park rangers. This doesn't stop them from approaching tourists hopefully.
The deer have learned that tourists equal food possibilities. They'll sniff bags, follow people carrying visible food items, and occasionally snatch paper maps right from visitors' hands. Keep food tucked away when not eating, and hold maps and tickets firmly.
That said, the deer are generally gentle and make charming photographic subjects. Early morning, before crowds arrive, is the best time for deer photography. You'll find them throughout the island but especially concentrated around the shrine area and along the waterfront shopping street.
Feeding the deer human food is prohibited - it disrupts their natural diet and creates dependent behaviour.
Food and Refreshments on the Island
Momiji Manju: The Island's Signature Treat
Momiji manju - small maple-leaf-shaped cakes filled with sweet bean paste, chocolate, custard, or other fillings - are Miyajima's most famous souvenir. Shops along Omotesando Shopping Street sell them fresh, and you can watch bakers pouring batter into the distinctive leaf-shaped moulds.
Several shops offer age-momiji (deep-fried momiji manju), served warm with a crispy exterior. These cost around ¥180 each and make an excellent mid-morning snack.
For variety, try Momijido's selection near the ferry terminal. They stock over 20 filling varieties, including seasonal specials like cherry blossom or lemon cream.
Oysters: Fresh from Hiroshima Bay
Hiroshima Prefecture produces roughly 60% of Japan's oysters, and Miyajima's waterfront restaurants serve them exceptionally fresh. Expect to pay ¥500-800 for two grilled oysters from waterfront stalls, or ¥1,500-3,000 for fuller oyster-focused meals at sit-down restaurants.
The oyster season runs from October through March, with the plumpest, tastiest oysters available from December to February. Summer oysters are smaller and less flavourful.
Restaurants and Cafés
Okonomiyaki restaurants dot Omotesando Street, serving Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki (layered rather than mixed). Expect to pay ¥800-1,200 per serving.
For traditional Japanese lunch sets, try Kakiya (specialising in oyster dishes) or Fukuyoshi, which serves excellent tempura sets in a historic building. Budget ¥1,500-3,000 per person.
Several cafés along the shopping street offer sit-down breaks. Sarasvati serves good coffee and light meals, while Cafe Lente provides water views with your refreshments.
Near the ropeway station, a small rest area offers basic snacks and drinks, but options are limited. If planning a summit hike, bring water and snacks from the main shopping street.
Shopping and Souvenirs
Omotesando Shopping Street, the covered arcade leading from the ferry terminal to Itsukushima Shrine, packs in souvenir shops, food vendors, and craft stores.
Beyond momiji manju, popular purchases include:
- Miyajima-bori (carved wooden rice scoops, the island's traditional craft)
- Local maple leaf-themed items (towels, ceramics, stationery)
- Oyster-flavoured snacks and condiments
- Traditional crafts like woven baskets and textiles
Several shops sell high-quality hand-carved shamoji (rice scoops). The island's woodworkers have been producing these since the late 1700s. Prices range from ¥500 for small decorative pieces to ¥5,000+ for large, elaborately carved versions.
For authentic local products, look for items labelled as Miyajima-made rather than generic Hiroshima souvenirs.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
Start early: Catch the 7:30 AM ferry if possible. You'll have the island largely to yourself until 10:00 AM, making for superior photographs and a more peaceful shrine visit.
Wear walking shoes: Even if you skip Mount Misen, you'll walk several kilometres exploring the waterfront, shrine, and side streets. The terrain includes steps, slopes, and uneven surfaces.
Check the weather: Mount Misen can be socked in with clouds even when the waterfront is clear. Ropeway staff can advise on summit visibility before you purchase tickets.
Bring cash: While larger restaurants accept cards, many smaller shops and food stalls remain cash-only. ATMs are available near the ferry terminal.
Plan for bathroom breaks: Public toilets are located near the ferry terminal, at the shrine, near Daisho-in Temple, and at the ropeway stations. Facilities are limited on mountain trails.
Consider staying overnight: Several ryokan (traditional inns) operate on the island. Staying overnight lets you experience the island after day-trippers leave and before they arrive - the shrine area at sunset and sunrise is genuinely magical.
Seasonal Considerations
Miyajima presents different faces through the seasons:
Spring (March-May): Cherry blossoms bloom in early April, particularly beautiful around Daisho-in Temple. Temperatures are comfortable for hiking. This is peak season, so expect crowds.
Summer (June-August): Hot and humid, with temperatures often exceeding 30°C. The mountain trails become challenging in the heat. Summer is actually the quietest season tourism-wise, particularly in June.
Autumn (September-November): Peak autumn colours arrive mid to late November, painting the mountainsides brilliant red and orange. This is the busiest season - accommodation books out months ahead. Absolutely stunning but crowded.
Winter (December-February): Cool and often crisp. Fewer tourists make for easier exploration. Occasionally, light snow dusts the island, creating ethereal scenes around the torii gate. Some mountain facilities may have reduced hours.
Making the Most of Your Day
A suggested itinerary for a full-day visit:
8:00 AM: Arrive on the island, visit Itsukushima Shrine before crowds
9:00 AM: Take the ropeway up Mount Misen, hike to summit
11:30 AM: Descend and have lunch
1:00 PM: Visit Daisho-in Temple
2:00 PM: Explore Omotesando Shopping Street, try age-momiji
3:00 PM: Visit Senjokaku and Five-Storey Pagoda
4:00 PM: Return to waterfront as tide changes (if planned), final torii photos
5:00 PM: Catch ferry back to Miyajimaguchi
Adjust this based on your interests. If you're not hiking Mount Misen, you can comfortably see the main sites in half a day, though a full day allows for more relaxed exploration and better photographs at different tide levels.
Miyajima delivers what it promises - the floating torii gate truly does look remarkable, especially at high tide or during sunset. But the island offers depth beyond that single famous view. The quiet temple paths, the forested mountain trails, the street food, the curious deer - together, they create an experience that lingers long after you've caught the ferry back to the mainland.