Japanese New Year (Shogatsu): What Happens and What Closes

Japanese New Year, known as Shogatsu (正月), transforms the entire country into a fascinating blend of ancient tradition and modern celebration. But for travellers, it's also a period when Japan operates quite differently than usual. Understanding what happens during Shogatsu and what closes will help you plan whether to visit during this special time or avoid the complications it can bring.

When Is Shogatsu?

The Japanese New Year holiday period typically runs from 31st December to 3rd January, though many businesses extend closures through 5th January or even longer. The most significant days are:

• 31st December (Ōmisoka): New Year's Eve, when families gather and prepare
• 1st January (Ganjitsu): The most important day, when first shrine visits occur
• 2nd-3rd January: Continued celebration and family time

Unlike Western holidays that might close things for a single day, Shogatsu essentially shuts down much of Japan's commercial life for nearly a week. This isn't a rolling closure - it all happens simultaneously, creating a very different Japan than you'll experience at any other time of year.

What Actually Happens During Shogatsu

The Days Before: Preparation Frenzy

In the week leading up to New Year, Japanese people undertake thorough house cleaning (ōsōji) to sweep away the previous year's misfortunes. Department stores become absolutely packed with shoppers buying special New Year decorations and foods.

You'll notice kadomatsu (pine and bamboo arrangements) appearing outside homes and businesses from around 28th December. These decorations invite ancestral spirits and welcome good fortune. Shimenawa (sacred rope decorations) also appear on doors, particularly those with citrus fruits and white paper strips attached.

New Year's Eve: Toshikoshi Soba

On 31st December, many families eat toshikoshi soba (year-crossing buckwheat noodles). The long noodles symbolise longevity and the crossing from one year to the next. Finding a restaurant serving these on New Year's Eve is possible, though many places close early.

As midnight approaches, Buddhist temples across Japan ring their bells 108 times (joya no kane), representing the 108 earthly desires that cause human suffering. Popular temples like Sensō-ji in Tokyo's Asakusa or Chion-in in Kyoto attract enormous crowds for this ceremony. If you're staying near a temple, you'll hear the deep, resonant bells even from your accommodation.

New Year's Day: Hatsumode and Osechi

The first shrine visit of the year (hatsumode) is arguably the most important tradition. From the early hours of 1st January through the first few days, millions of Japanese people visit shrines and temples to pray for good fortune in the coming year.

Major shrines become extraordinarily crowded. Meiji Shrine in Tokyo typically receives over three million visitors during the first three days of January. Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto, Sumiyoshi Taisha in Osaka, and Atsuta Shrine in Nagoya all see massive crowds. Expect queues of several hours at famous shrines on 1st January, though the atmosphere is generally patient and festive.

At home, families eat osechi ryōri, traditional New Year foods served in stacked lacquer boxes. Each dish carries symbolic meaning: black beans for health, herring roe for fertility, sweet chestnuts for success, prawns for longevity. Hotels catering to Japanese guests often serve elaborate osechi breakfasts on 1st January.

Ongoing Traditions

Throughout the New Year period, you might encounter:

• Otoshidama: Adults giving money in special envelopes to children, creating bustling scenes at shops selling toys and sweets
• Kakizome: First calligraphy writing of the year, with events at cultural centres
• Fukubukuro: "Lucky bags" sold by retailers from 2nd January onwards, containing mystery items at discounted prices - expect queues at popular stores
• Nenjo: The Japanese send millions of New Year postcards (nengajō), delivered on 1st January by special arrangement with Japan Post

What Closes During Shogatsu

Government Offices and Banks

All government offices close from 29th December to 3rd January. This includes immigration offices, ward offices, and city halls. Banks typically close from 31st December through 3rd January, with many ATMs also stopping services or limiting transactions.

If you need to conduct official business or banking, complete it before 29th December or wait until 4th January at the earliest.

Museums and Cultural Attractions

Many museums close for the New Year period, typically from around 29th December to 3rd or 4th January. However, the closure dates vary significantly:

• Tokyo National Museum: Usually closes 1st January only
• Kyoto National Museum: Typically closes 28th December to 1st January
• teamLab Borderless/Planets: Often remain open with advanced booking
• Most castle keeps and historical sites: Closed 29th December through 2nd-3rd January

Always check specific attraction websites before planning New Year visits. Some attractions, particularly in tourist areas like Kyoto's temple district, remain open but may have adjusted hours.

Restaurants and Food

This is where Shogatsu most affects travellers. Many restaurants, particularly family-run establishments and traditional dining spots, close for several days. In residential neighbourhoods, finding open restaurants from 31st December through 2nd January can be genuinely difficult.

What typically stays open:

• Convenience stores: 7-Eleven, Lawson, and Family Mart maintain regular hours and stock ready-to-eat meals
• Chain restaurants: Yoshinoya, Sukiya, McDonald's, and other major chains often maintain some locations open, though with reduced hours
• Hotel restaurants: Usually open, serving both osechi and Western options
• Tourist district restaurants: Locations in Shibuya, Shinjuku, Kyoto's Gion, Osaka's Dōtonbori often have some options available
• Ramen shops: Many stay open, particularly in major cities

What typically closes:

• Traditional restaurants: Kaiseki, tempura, and upscale dining establishments often close 31st December through 3rd-5th January
• Local izakaya and small restaurants: Most neighbourhood establishments close for several days
• Department store restaurants: Close in line with department store hours (see below)

Shopping

Department stores close on 1st January, with many also closing on 31st December. They reopen on 2nd January with enormous sales and the famous fukubukuro lucky bags, creating shopping frenzies.

Convenience stores remain your reliable backup for necessities. Don Quijote (Donki) locations typically maintain regular hours, making them valuable for travellers needing supplies.

Transport

Public transport continues operating, though with modified schedules:

• Trains and subway: Run on holiday schedules with reduced frequency, particularly late night services
• Shinkansen: Operate with regular service but become extremely crowded before New Year (29th-31st December) and after New Year (2nd-4th January) as people travel for family gatherings
• Local buses: Reduced services, particularly in smaller cities
• Airport transport: Maintains regular services

The days immediately before and after the core holiday period (28th-30th December and 2nd-4th January) see Japan's highest domestic travel volumes. Shinkansen seats and domestic flights should be booked well in advance if travelling during these dates.

Activities That Work Well During Shogatsu

Shrine and Temple Visits

Experiencing hatsumode at a major shrine is culturally fascinating. If large crowds concern you, visit after 3rd January when numbers decrease significantly, or go to smaller local shrines that offer authentic experiences without overwhelming crowds.

For crowd-tolerant visitors, arriving at major shrines around 6-7am on 1st January provides a more manageable experience than midday visits.

Special New Year Events

Certain events only occur during Shogatsu:

• Imperial Palace appearance: The Imperial family makes public appearances on 2nd January (require advance registration)
• Fukubukuro shopping: Join Japanese shoppers hunting lucky bags at major retailers from 2nd January
• Hakone Ekiden: Famous relay race on 2nd-3rd January from Tokyo to Hakone and back
• Traditional performances: Kabuki theatres in Tokyo and Kyoto often hold special New Year programmes

Natural Attractions and Parks

Parks, gardens, and natural areas generally remain accessible. Nara Park's deer continue waiting for crackers, hiking trails remain open, and viewing Mount Fuji from various vantage points requires no reservations.

Should You Visit Japan During Shogatsu?

Reasons to Visit

Cultural immersion: Experiencing Japan's most important holiday provides genuine cultural insight. The decorations, traditions, and atmosphere create a Japan quite different from other times.

Special events: Certain experiences only happen during New Year. Hearing 108 temple bells at midnight, joining millions at hatsumode, or witnessing entire families in traditional kimono creates lasting memories.

Winter weather: Early January offers clear, crisp weather ideal for viewing Mount Fuji and enjoying winter activities.

Unique photography: The decorations, ceremonies, and crowds provide compelling subjects.

Reasons to Avoid

Restaurant closures: Finding food can genuinely challenge visitors, particularly those with dietary restrictions or preferences beyond convenience store offerings.

Crowds: Popular shrines become almost impossibly crowded on 1st-3rd January. If you dislike crowds, this period will frustrate you.

Limited flexibility: Many spontaneous plans won't work when attractions close and restaurants shut.

Higher prices: Hotels charge premium rates for New Year, particularly in popular destinations.

Transport crowding: Travelling on shinkansen or booking domestic flights during peak movement days (29th-30th December, 2nd-3rd January) requires advance planning and often premium prices.

Practical Planning Tips

Before You Arrive

Book accommodation early: Hotels fill quickly and charge premium rates. Book several months ahead for popular destinations.

Research restaurant options: Identify which restaurants near your accommodation stay open. Hotel restaurants provide fallback options.

Buy JR Passes in advance: If using rail passes, arrange before arrival as some offices close during Shogatsu.

Download offline maps: Reduced English support during holidays makes navigation apps essential.

During Your Visit

Stock up on 30th December: Buy snacks, drinks, and ready-meals from convenience stores before closures peak.

Visit shrines strategically: Go very early morning or after 3rd January to avoid the worst crowds.

Keep cash: ATM access becomes limited; withdraw sufficient cash before 31st December.

Build flexibility: Don't schedule crucial activities for 1st-2nd January when closures peak.

Embrace convenience stores: Japanese konbini offer surprisingly good food quality and essential supplies throughout Shogatsu.

Regional Variations

Tokyo, Osaka, and other major cities maintain better service levels than smaller cities during Shogatsu. Rural areas and regional cities see more complete shutdowns.

Kyoto's temple and shrine district maintains reasonable restaurant availability in Gion and around major temples, though advance bookings help. Tokyo's Shibuya, Harajuku, and Shinjuku areas typically have multiple options open throughout the holiday.

Okinawa celebrates New Year somewhat differently, with more businesses maintaining operations, though the traditional Ryukyu New Year (lunar calendar) holds greater significance for locals.

After Shogatsu

By 4th-5th January, most restaurants and businesses reopen. The period from 5th-10th January often offers excellent value as hotels drop their premium New Year rates whilst winter weather remains favourable.

Decorations typically come down after 7th January (though dates vary regionally), marking the official end of Shogatsu celebrations.

Making It Work

Visiting Japan during Shogatsu requires more planning than other times but offers genuine cultural rewards. The key is accepting the limitations whilst embracing the unique atmosphere. Experiencing hatsumode's energy, seeing families in traditional dress, and participating in centuries-old traditions provides insight into Japanese culture that's simply unavailable during other months.

Prepare for closures, expect crowds, book accommodation early, and maintain realistic expectations about flexibility. Do this, and Shogatsu can be one of your most memorable Japan experiences. Alternatively, if you prioritise convenience and spontaneity, visit Japan during other months when the country operates at its famously efficient normal pace.

Whichever you choose, understanding Shogatsu helps you make the informed decision that matches your travel style.