The First-Timer's Guide to Japan

Japan rewards travellers who plan a little and stay flexible. The trains are punctual, the signage is bilingual, and even the smallest details, chopsticks rests, vending-machine umbrellas, feel considered. This guide is the version we wish someone had handed us on our first trip.

How long should you stay?

Ten to fourteen days is the sweet spot. Anything shorter and the famous "Tokyo - Kyoto - Osaka" route starts to feel like a sprint; anything longer and you'll want to start adding regions like Kyushu, Hokkaido, or Tohoku. If you only have a week, pick two cities and resist the urge to add Hiroshima or Mt. Fuji as a half-day stop.

Here's why the timing matters: a sensible first itinerary might allocate four nights in Tokyo, three in Kyoto, and two in Osaka. That leaves a day either side for arrival and departure, plus a little breathing room. The shinkansen from Tokyo to Kyoto takes around 2 hours 15 minutes on the Nozomi service (roughly ¥13,500 unreserved), and Kyoto to Osaka is 30 minutes on the Special Rapid service (around ¥570). Those transitions eat less time than you expect, but jet lag, museum fatigue, and the sheer density of stimuli mean you'll appreciate slower mornings.

If you're stretching to 14 days, consider adding Takayama or Kanazawa (both accessible via limited express from Nagoya), Hiroshima and Miyajima (around 4 hours from Kyoto on the shinkansen, roughly ¥11,000), or a night in Hakone if Mt. Fuji weather looks favourable. Each addition should come with at least two nights on the ground, one-night stops become exhausting when you're moving luggage and checking train times every day.

When to go

Spring (late March to early April) and autumn (mid-November to early December) are the two postcard seasons, cherry blossoms and koyo respectively, and they're also the busiest. Summer is hot and humid in the cities but glorious in Hokkaido. Winter is the quiet, underrated season: ski powder in Hakuba, snow festivals in Sapporo, and clear blue skies in Tokyo and Kyoto.

Some honest caveats: if you're visiting for sakura, the bloom window is narrow (typically one to two weeks per region) and impossible to predict more than a fortnight out. Tokyo and Kyoto usually peak late March to early April, but a warm winter can bring it forward or a cold snap can delay it. Accommodation prices double, popular temples see queues before opening, and every park is standing-room only by midday. It's worth it for many people, but set expectations accordingly.

Autumn is more predictable. Koyo season in Kyoto runs from mid-November through early December, and the weather is stable, crisp, and excellent for walking. The downside is that every other traveller has worked this out too, Arashiyama and Fushimi Inari Taisha are shoulder-to-shoulder by 10:00.

Summer (June through August) brings humidity that can feel oppressive in Kyoto and Osaka, though Tokyo's air conditioning is world-class. Early June is rainy season, but it's also when hydrangeas bloom at temples like Meigetsu-in in Kamakura. Late July and August are festival season, Gion Matsuri in Kyoto, Sumida River fireworks in Tokyo, and the mountains of Nagano or the coastline of Hokkaido become genuinely appealing escapes.

Winter (December through February) is the season we quietly recommend to anyone who doesn't mind skipping cherry blossoms. Ski resorts like Hakuba and Niseko get deep, dry powder, Tokyo's skies are blue and clear, and Kyoto's temples look extraordinary under light snow. Many traditional ryokan drop their rates outside peak season, and you'll often have onsen baths to yourself. The trade-off is shorter daylight hours (sunset around 17:00 in December) and the possibility of transport delays in mountainous areas during heavy snow.

Getting around

The bullet train (shinkansen) is the spine of Japanese travel. Reserve seats for any journey over an hour. Inside cities, an IC card (Suica, Pasmo, or ICOCA) replaces tickets entirely, tap on, tap off, top up at any station kiosk. Taxis are excellent but expensive; you almost never need one.

The JR Pass debate: if you're doing the classic Tokyo - Kyoto - Osaka loop with a return to Tokyo, the seven-day Ordinary Pass (around ¥50,000 at time of writing) breaks even against buying shinkansen tickets individually. If you're only travelling one way, or if you're spending the majority of your time in a single city, skip it. Do the maths based on your actual route, the JR East website has a fare calculator that's surprisingly accurate.

Reserving seats is straightforward. At any JR ticket office ("Midori-no-madoguchi"), show your pass or ticket and tell the clerk your departure station, destination, preferred departure time, and "reserved seat, please". They'll print a reserved-seat ticket showing your carriage and seat number. You can do this up to a month in advance or ten minutes before departure, though popular routes (Tokyo to Kyoto on Friday afternoons, Kyoto to Tokyo on Sunday mornings) can sell out hours ahead during peak season.

IC cards work on nearly every urban rail line, bus, and even some vending machines and convenience stores. Buy one at any major station ticket machine (there's usually an English menu), load it with ¥2,000 or ¥3,000, and you're done. The card itself costs a ¥500 deposit, refundable when you return it, though many travellers keep theirs as a souvenir. Tokyo's Suica and Pasmo are interchangeable, as is Osaka's ICOCA, buy whichever you see first.

For routes outside the JR network, you'll occasionally need a separate ticket. The private Keihan line between Kyoto and Osaka is faster and cheaper than JR for some routes, and the Kintetsu line runs to Nara. Both accept IC cards. The only time you'll genuinely need to buy a paper ticket is for some limited-express services that charge a reserved-seat surcharge on top of the base fare, the system will prompt you at the gate if your IC card won't work.

Taxis start around ¥500 and climb quickly. A 15-minute ride in central Tokyo might cost ¥2,000 or more. They're spotless, the drivers are courteous (often to the point of wearing white gloves), and doors open and close automatically. Useful for late nights or heavy luggage, but the train is almost always faster and a fraction of the price.

Money

Japan is more cashless every year, but it's still a cash-friendly country. Plan to carry ¥10,000 - ¥20,000 on you for small restaurants, temples, and rural stops. 7-Eleven ATMs accept foreign cards reliably, and post-office ATMs are everywhere.

The practical rhythm: withdraw ¥30,000 - ¥50,000 when you land (Narita and Haneda both have 7-Eleven ATMs in the arrivals hall), keep ¥10,000 in your day bag, and top up every few days. ATM fees vary by your home bank, but the withdrawal itself is free on the Japanese side. Post-office ATMs (look for the "JP Bank" sign) have English menus and are open slightly longer hours than most bank branches, though 7-Eleven is 24/7.

Most restaurants under ¥2,000 per person are cash-only, as are small shops, family-run ryokan, and temple admission fees (often ¥300 - ¥500). Chain restaurants, department stores, convenience stores, and larger hotels take cards, and contactless payment (particularly Suica or Pasmo) is increasingly common even at small vendors inside train stations.

One quirk: change comes back in a tray, never hand-to-hand. You'll place your cash or card in a small dish beside the register, and the change or receipt will appear in the same tray. It's not rude to hand money directly to someone, but the tray system is so universal that doing otherwise can create a momentary confusion.

Connectivity

A travel eSIM is now the easiest option, install before you fly, activate on landing. Pocket Wi-Fi units are still around but mostly for groups sharing one connection.

eSIMs from providers like Airalo, Ubigi, or Sakura Mobile typically offer 5 - 20GB for ¥2,000 - ¥5,000, valid for seven to thirty days. Installation takes about three minutes if your phone supports eSIM (most iPhones from the XS onwards, and many recent Android models do). You'll receive a QR code by email, scan it in your phone's settings, and the data plan activates the moment you land and turn off aeroplane mode. The advantage is no physical SIM swap, no counter queues at the airport, and no device to carry and charge.

Pocket Wi-Fi units are still available for rental at the airport or delivered to your hotel (services like Japan Wireless or Ninja WiFi, typically ¥800 - ¥1,200 per day). They're worth considering if you're travelling in a group of three or four and want to split the cost, or if your phone doesn't support eSIM. The unit is about the size of a deck of cards, connects up to five devices, and needs charging every 8 - 10 hours.

Free Wi-Fi exists at most hotels, major train stations, and chain cafés, but it's patchy and often requires registration with an email address or SMS verification. If you plan to rely on maps, translation apps, or restaurant lookups throughout the day, mobile data is worth the peace of mind.

Etiquette without anxiety

Japanese etiquette is forgiving for tourists who try. The big three: don't talk on trains, keep your shoes off when there's a step up at the entrance, and don't tip, it can confuse staff. Everything else is on a sliding scale of "appreciated, not required".

The train silence rule is real. Quiet conversation is fine, but phone calls and loud laughter stand out. If your phone rings, answer briefly ("I'll call you back in five minutes") and hang up. Watching videos or playing games is common, but keep your device on silent. Priority seating near the doors is reserved for elderly passengers, pregnant women, and people with disabilities, vacate it if someone who needs it boards.

Shoes come off at the entrance to homes, many ryokan, some temples, and a handful of traditional restaurants. The cue is a step up and a row of shoes or slippers. Step out of your shoes, turn them to face the door (toes pointing out), and step up into the building. If slippers are provided, wear them everywhere except tatami mat rooms (socks or bare feet only on tatami). Bathroom slippers are a separate set, swap into them when you enter a toilet, and swap back when you leave. It sounds fiddly but becomes automatic after a day.

Tipping doesn't exist in Japanese service culture, and leaving money on the table can genuinely confuse or embarrass staff. The bill is the bill. At some high-end ryokan, there's a tradition of leaving a small cash tip in an envelope ("kokorozuke"), but this is rare, optional, and usually explained in advance by the ryokan itself.

Other small things: don't eat while walking (buy from a stall, step aside, finish it, then move on). Don't blow your nose loudly in public, find a toilet or step outside. Bow slightly when saying thank you to someone who's helped you, even if it's just a shopkeeper handing back your change. None of this is rigidly enforced, and you won't cause offence by getting it slightly wrong, but the effort is noticed and appreciated.

Where to stay

Accommodation in Japan ranges from ¥3,000 capsule hotels to ¥100,000-per-night ryokan, and the quality is high across the board. For a first trip, budget around ¥8,000 - ¥15,000 per night for a mid-range hotel in Tokyo or Kyoto, clean, compact, well-located, and often with a convenience store in the lobby.

Business hotels (Toyoko Inn, Dormy Inn, Hotel Gracery) are the backbone of sensible travel in Japan. Rooms are small (12 - 15 square metres is typical), but the bed is comfortable, the bathroom is a marvel of space-efficient design, and you're almost always a five-minute walk from a major station. Booking directly through the hotel's Japanese-language website can sometimes yield slightly better rates than international aggregators, though the difference is often marginal.

Ryokan are traditional inns with tatami mat rooms, futon bedding, kaiseki dinners, and often an onsen (hot spring bath). They're worth at least one night during a first trip, ideally in Hakone, Takayama, or a quiet neighbourhood of Kyoto. Expect to pay ¥20,000 - ¥40,000 per person for a mid-range ryokan with two meals included. The experience is formal but not intimidating: you'll be shown to your room, served dinner around 18:00 or 19:00, and staff will lay out your futon while you're at dinner.

In Tokyo, staying near Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ueno, or Asakusa gives you easy access to subway lines and late-night dining. In Kyoto, the area around Kyoto Station is convenient for day trips (and the shinkansen), while Gion or Higashiyama are quieter and closer to the temples. In Osaka, Namba and Umeda are the two transit hubs, both thick with hotels and restaurants.

What to pack

A carry-on suitcase or a 40 - 50-litre backpack is enough for two weeks. Coin laundries ("coin laundry") are everywhere, hotels often have laundry machines, and many ryokan will wash clothes overnight for a small fee.

Essentials: a pair of shoes that slip on and off easily (you'll be doing this a dozen times a day), a light daypack for temple visits and shopping, a refillable water bottle (vending machines are ubiquitous, but they add up), and a portable battery pack if you'll be using your phone for maps and photos all day.

Japan is one of the easiest countries to pack light for because you can buy almost anything you've forgotten at a convenience store or 100-yen shop. Forgot an adapter? Bic Camera or Yodobashi will have one. Need an umbrella? Every 7-Eleven sells compact ones for ¥500. The only things worth bringing from home are prescription medications (including a copy of the prescription itself) and any specialised gear like hiking boots for alpine routes.

Layering works better than heavy coats, even in winter. Tokyo and Kyoto rarely drop below freezing, and you'll be moving between overheated trains, chilly streets, and warm restaurants every 20 minutes. A base layer, a fleece or jumper, and a windproof outer layer cover most situations from November through March.

Plan loosely

Pick your anchor cities first, then 1 - 2 must-do experiences per city. Leave at least one open afternoon per location for wandering. Some of our best memories have come from streets we found by accident.

The structure we'd suggest for a first-time itinerary: decide your cities (Tokyo and Kyoto, or Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka). Book your accommodation for those cities. Reserve your shinkansen seats between them. Then pick one major experience per city, a day trip to Nikko from Tokyo, an afternoon at Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto, a morning at Osaka Castle, and leave everything else flexible.

Over-planning leads to museum fatigue, a rigid schedule that punishes you for getting lost, and missed opportunities. If you stumble on a neighbourhood festival, you want the freedom to stay. If a temple you planned to visit is closed for restoration, you want the slack to find an alternative. If you're genuinely exhausted from jet lag on day two, you want a morning without obligations.

Google Maps works flawlessly in Japan for routing, train times, and walking directions, but it doesn't surface the most interesting streets. Paper maps from tourist information centres (found at every major station) often mark side streets, small shrines, and local café clusters that algorithms miss. Grab one in each city and keep it folded in your day bag.

Language

You don't need Japanese to travel in Japan, but learning a dozen phrases improves the experience noticeably. "Sumimasen" (excuse me), "arigatou gozaimasu" (thank you), "eigo no menyu arimasu ka" (do you have an English menu?), and "o-kaikei onegaishimasu" (the bill, please) cover 80 per cent of daily interactions.

Google Translate's camera function is legitimately useful for menus, signs, and ingredient lists. Point your phone at a menu, and it'll overlay a translation in real time, not perfect, but enough to tell chicken from pork. The voice function works for simple questions, though expect puzzled looks if the app mispronounces a word.

Many locals speak some English but are hesitant to use it unless you initiate. If you're lost, try showing a map or an address written in Japanese on your phone rather than asking in English first. It's faster and less stressful for everyone. Train station staff and hotel front desks will always have at least one person with workable English, and tourist information centres often have multilingual staff.