By Declan BarryShikoku: The 88-Temple Pilgrimage Island Almost No Tourists Visit
Whilst millions flock to Kyoto's Golden Pavilion and Tokyo's Senso-ji Temple, Japan's smallest main island hosts one of the world's most profound spiritual journeys - and hardly anyone knows about it. Shikoku, separated from Honshu by the Seto Inland Sea, remains beautifully overlooked. Its 88-temple pilgrimage route, the Shikoku Henro, has drawn Buddhist pilgrims for over 1,200 years through mountain passes, coastal villages, and cedar forests that feel utterly untouched by mass tourism.
I've walked portions of this route three times, and each visit reveals a Japan that exists beyond the usual itineraries - one where elderly locals still offer free tea to passing pilgrims, where temple lodgings serve vegetarian meals unchanged for centuries, and where the journey itself matters more than ticking off sights.
What Makes the Shikoku Pilgrimage Special
The Shikoku Henro traces the footsteps of Kukai (also known as Kobo Daishi), the revered monk who founded Shingon Buddhism in the 9th century. The 1,200-kilometre route connects 88 temples across Shikoku's four prefectures: Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime, and Kagawa. Pilgrims - called henro - traditionally walk the entire circuit, though most modern visitors tackle sections over multiple trips or use buses and trains.
What sets this pilgrimage apart is osettai, the local tradition of offering small gifts, drinks, or encouragement to pilgrims. I've been handed fresh mikan oranges by octogenarians tending roadside shrines, invited into homes for green tea, and given hand-drawn maps to hidden mountain springs. This generosity flows from the belief that helping a pilgrim earns merit, as Kobo Daishi himself is said to walk alongside every henro.
Unlike the crowded temples of Kyoto, Shikoku's sacred sites often sit in profound solitude. Temple 12, Shosanji, clings to a mountainside accessible only via 333 stone steps through towering cedars. Temple 24, Hotsumisaki-ji, perches on a cape where Pacific waves crash against black cliffs. These aren't Instagram attractions - they're working monasteries where monks have chanted the same sutras for generations.
Planning Your Shikoku Journey
You needn't walk the entire circuit to experience the pilgrimage's essence. Most first-time visitors explore one prefecture over 4-7 days, focusing on accessible temples and the surrounding landscapes. Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) offer ideal walking weather, with autumn bringing spectacular mountain foliage. Summer heat can be punishing, particularly in Kochi Prefecture, whilst winter brings cold rain and occasional snow in mountain regions.
The traditional starting point is Temple 1, Ryozenji, in Tokushima Prefecture, though you can begin anywhere and temples need not be visited in order. The route divides conceptually into four sections: Awakening (Tokushima, temples 1-23), Discipline (Kochi, temples 24-39), Enlightenment (Ehime, temples 40-65), and Nirvana (Kagawa, temples 66-88).
What You'll Need
Traditional pilgrims wear white vests (hakui), conical straw hats (sugegasa), and carry walking staffs (kongo-zue) representing Kobo Daishi. You can purchase these at Temple 1 or major temples, though modern clothing works perfectly fine. Essential items include:
- A pilgrim's stamp book (nokyocho) available at Temple 1 for ¥1,500-¥2,000
- Comfortable walking shoes with good grip
- Lightweight rain gear (Shikoku receives substantial rainfall)
- Sun protection and insect repellent for warmer months
- Basic Japanese phrases or a translation app
At each temple, you'll typically pay ¥300 for a calligraphy stamp and inscription in your stamp book - an artistic record of your journey. Some temples also sell colourful goshuin stamps and omamori amulets specific to their history.
Four Perfect Sections for First-Time Visitors
Tokushima: The Mountain Gateway (Temples 11-17)
This mountainous section northeast of Tokushima city showcases why the route earned its reputation for spiritual challenge. Temple 12, Shosanji, requires a 90-minute uphill hike through primeval forest. The path crosses streams on moss-covered stones and passes weathered Jizo statues draped with red bibs. Morning mist often clings to the valleys, creating an almost otherworldly atmosphere.
From Tokushima Station, take the JR Tokushima Line to Awa-Kawashima Station (¥670, 45 minutes), then a bus towards Temple 11. Budget 2-3 days for this section if walking between temples, staying in minshuku guesthouses or temple lodgings (shukubo). Temple 12 offers basic overnight accommodation for ¥6,500 including two vegetarian meals.
Kochi: The Lonely Cape (Temples 24-26)
Kochi Prefecture stretches along Shikoku's southern Pacific coast, where the route's longest and most isolated sections test pilgrims' resolve. Temple 24, Hotsumisaki-ji, sits on Cape Muroto, a dramatic headland battered by ocean winds. The walk from Temple 24 to Temple 26 follows coastal roads past fishing villages where time moves slowly and elderly residents still practise osettai.
Reach Muroto by bus from Kochi Station (¥2,540, 2.5 hours). The cape itself warrants a full day's exploration, with walking trails along cliffs, tide pools, and geological formations. Stay at Temple 24's shukubo (¥7,500 with meals) or nearby minshuku. The morning service at 6:00am, with monks chanting sutras in the main hall, provides an unforgettable introduction to temple life.
Ehime: The Temple Mountain (Temples 43-47)
Western Shikoku's Ehime Prefecture contains the route's highest point: Temple 45, Iwayaji, reached via ropeway or a steep mountain trail. This section near Matsuyama city offers the perfect balance of accessibility and authenticity. Temple 51, Ishite-ji, in central Matsuyama, features a spectacular inner cave shrine and traditional architecture largely unchanged since the 14th century.
Matsuyama, Shikoku's largest city, serves as an excellent base with its historic Dogo Onsen, feudal castle, and excellent transport connections. From Matsuyama Station, local trains and buses reach most temples in this cluster. Walk the mountain section over 2-3 days, returning to Matsuyama each evening, or stay at temple lodgings to experience rural Shikoku fully.
Kagawa: The Final Stretch (Temples 84-88)
The pilgrimage's conclusion in Kagawa Prefecture carries emotional weight. Temple 88, Okuboji, sits in mountain forests near the prefectural border - completing the circuit here, then returning to Temple 1, symbolises the endless cycle of spiritual practice. The temples in this final section feel particularly welcoming, as if acknowledging pilgrims' approaching journey's end.
From Takamatsu, Kagawa's capital, trains and buses provide access to these final temples. Temple 85, Yakuri-ji, nicknamed the "health temple", attracts pilgrims praying for healing. The approach climbs through farmland terraced into hillsides, with views across the Inland Sea on clear days. Budget ¥500-¥800 for each temple bus connection from Takamatsu.
Temple Etiquette and Rituals
Each temple visit follows a traditional sequence. Purify your hands and mouth at the water basin (temizuya) near the entrance. Proceed to the main hall (hondo), ring the bell if permitted, light a candle and incense stick (typically ¥100-¥200), place a coin offering, and recite or listen to the Heart Sutra if you know it. Repeat this process at the Daishi Hall, dedicated to Kobo Daishi himself.
Temple staff typically open the stamp offices (nokyosho) from 7:00am to 5:00pm. Present your stamp book before visiting the halls - some temples prefer this order. The calligrapher will inscribe the temple's details, add their stamp, and write the date. Watch as they work; each stamp represents generations of calligraphic tradition.
Photography is generally permitted in temple grounds but prohibited inside main halls. Dress modestly - shorts and sleeveless tops are acceptable during hot weather, but very short skirts or revealing clothing seems disrespectful. Remove shoes before entering any interior spaces, and maintain quiet contemplation in prayer halls.
Where to Stay: Temple Lodgings and Beyond
Staying at temple lodgings (shukubo) transforms a temple visit into genuine immersion. Not all 88 temples offer accommodation - roughly 60 do, with standards ranging from basic tatami rooms to surprisingly comfortable quarters with private baths. Expect to pay ¥6,500-¥9,500 per night including dinner and breakfast, both vegetarian meals prepared according to Buddhist dietary principles (shojin ryori).
Dinner might include sesame tofu, mountain vegetables in delicate broths, pickles, miso soup, and perfectly seasoned rice. Breakfast follows similar patterns. Guests typically attend the morning service around 6:00-6:30am - participation is welcomed but not mandatory. The experience provides extraordinary insight into monastic life and routine.
Between temples, business hotels in larger towns like Matsuyama (from ¥6,000), traditional minshuku guesthouses (¥6,000-¥8,000 with meals), and occasional Western-style hotels serve pilgrims. The Henro House Network operates simple guesthouses specifically for pilgrims at several points along the route, offering dormitory beds from ¥2,500 and private rooms from ¥4,000.
Getting Around Shikoku
Whilst walking the complete circuit takes 40-60 days, trains and buses let you experience the pilgrimage's essence over a week or two. The JR Shikoku Pass offers excellent value: 3 days for ¥11,000, 5 days for ¥15,000, 7 days for ¥17,000. These passes cover all JR trains across Shikoku plus some local bus routes.
Organised bus tours hit multiple temples daily - efficient but somewhat removing the contemplative aspect. Independent travel using local buses gives better flexibility and deeper engagement with the landscape. Route buses between temples typically run 4-6 times daily, less frequently on weekends. Always check current schedules at tourist information centres.
Renting a car (from ¥6,000 daily) provides maximum freedom, particularly for remote temples in Kochi Prefecture. International driving permits are required. The roads are generally well-maintained, though mountain sections can be narrow and winding.
The Modern Pilgrimage Experience
Today's henro range from devoted Buddhist practitioners completing their third or tenth circuit to young Japanese seeking life direction after university, to international visitors drawn by the route's spiritual and cultural significance. You'll encounter elderly Japanese walking solo with decades of pilgrimage experience, groups of friends tackling sections together, and the occasional foreigner looking somewhat bewildered by mountain trail markers.
This diversity enriches rather than diminishes the experience. Pilgrims naturally form loose communities, sharing information about upcoming accommodation, weather conditions, or particularly beautiful temple approaches. Fellow henro might become temporary walking companions for an afternoon or surprise dinner companions at temple lodgings.
The route's relative obscurity means even peak seasons rarely feel crowded. Where Kyoto's Kinkaku-ji sees 10,000 daily visitors, a Shikoku temple might receive 50 pilgrims and a handful of local worshippers. This solitude allows genuine contemplation and connection with the landscape and tradition.
Practical Considerations
Language: English is rarely spoken outside major towns. Download offline translation apps and learn basic Japanese phrases. Temple staff are accustomed to non-Japanese pilgrims and patient with communication challenges.
Fitness Level: The complete walking route requires good fitness and endurance. Individual sections vary dramatically - some temples sit beside train stations, others require strenuous mountain climbs. Research specific temples you plan to visit.
Costs: Budget ¥8,000-¥12,000 daily including accommodation, meals, transport, and temple offerings. Walking saves transport costs but increases time requirements. The complete walking pilgrimage typically costs ¥250,000-¥400,000.
Luggage: Most pilgrims use luggage forwarding services (takuhaibin) to send bags between accommodations, walking with only daypacks. Cost roughly ¥1,500-¥2,000 per bag per transfer. Arrange this at convenience stores or hotels.
Weather: Shikoku's climate varies significantly by coast, mountain, and season. Coastal regions enjoy mild winters but hot, humid summers. Mountains can be cold and wet year-round. Pack layers and reliable rain protection.
Why Go Now
Shikoku's pilgrimage temples face the same challenges as rural Japan generally: ageing populations, declining visitor numbers, and maintenance costs for historic structures. Some temples have closed their lodgings; others struggle to maintain elaborate calligraphy services. The tradition of osettai weakens as villages empty and elderly practitioners pass away.
Yet this makes experiencing the route now more valuable. The essence remains intact, the spiritual atmosphere undimmed, and the welcome genuine. Walking these ancient paths before they change irreversibly offers something increasingly rare: connection to a living tradition stretching back twelve centuries.
More practically, Shikoku offers Japanese cultural immersion without Tokyo's crowds or Kyoto's commercialisation. The island's temples, mountain landscapes, and coastal villages exist much as they have for generations. For travellers seeking Japan beyond the guidebook highlights, Shikoku delivers profoundly.
Getting to Shikoku
Three bridges connect Shikoku to Honshu: the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge to Tokushima, the Seto Ohashi Bridge to Kagawa, and the Shimanami Kaido to Ehime. From Tokyo, the fastest route takes the shinkansen to Okayama (3.5 hours, ¥17,000), then the JR Seto Ohashi Line to Takamatsu (1 hour, ¥1,550). From Osaka, limited express trains reach Takamatsu in 2 hours 15 minutes (¥5,500) or Matsuyama in 3 hours 45 minutes (¥7,500).
Takamatsu Airport and Matsuyama Airport serve domestic flights from Tokyo, Osaka, and other major cities. Flights from Tokyo take 75-90 minutes (¥15,000-¥30,000 depending on booking time). Budget carriers occasionally offer competitive fares worth checking.
The journey to Shikoku forms part of the pilgrimage itself - a gradual transition from Japan's metropolitan core to its contemplative periphery. By the time you reach your first temple, the mainland's intensity has already begun to fade, replaced by Shikoku's distinctive unhurried rhythm.
This is Japan as it was, as it remains in protected pockets, and as it might teach us to slow down, look carefully, and walk with intention rather than rush towards the next attraction. The 88 temples wait patiently, as they have for twelve centuries, for those ready to undertake the journey.